Which Is It, Winchester Abbey or Cathedral? (post and photos by mary)

  This was the peaceful demonstration outside the Parliment buildings – no signs of the riots during our exploration, but the sounds and signs of unrest were all around us.

My travels in the UK have happily brought me to London, not to visit the Queen.  Better than that, to meet Matt at the airport!  Finally reunited after five months and back on track for our travel adventures.  Off to London we went for a four day love-in.  To add to the excitement, London broke into horrendous riots everywhere we went including near our Clapham Common Euro Lodge Hotel!  What was that all about?

  Ah, the road to the  Royal Palace with the Union Jack leading us to the palace.

  Tourists doing the Royal Shuffle.

  The sun’s last rays painting clouds behind the Town Clock – 8:45 sundown!

One of my UK travel missions has been to connect with my relatives who I have either never met or haven’t seen since I was six years old.  That has been a really, really successful adventure and another blog story to come.  London was an opportunity to seek the spirits of three great uncles who I did meet many years ago.  My Mother’s uncles had devoted their lives in service to Westminster Cathedral.  Uncle Anthony Bartlett was the Gentiluomo “Man in Waiting to the Archbishop Cardinal”, Uncle Monsignor Francis Bartlett was the Administer or Dean of the Cathedral and Uncle Aelred Bartlett, was the Cathredral’s Artistic Director.  We’re talking about serious devotion with these brothers!  Of all the famous sights in London, it was these Uncles’ legacies that I wanted to experience and discover.

 
The Tower of the Parliament Building, in the courtyard we found a red fox.  A real one, not a politician!

So, in the day time calm between the nightly riots, Matt and I set off to find the work of my great uncles.  After a quick look at the Tower of London and London Bridge we found our way to West Minister Abbey.  There we stood in a block long cue, paid the hefty 16 pound entry fee (each – much to Matt’s protest), and I immediately inquired about the location of the dedication memorial plaque that had been erected in my uncles’ memory.  I was told to knock on the librarian’s door in the deep recess of the Abbey for such information as the Abbey is filled with commemorative plaques for various great people.  Matt and I wondered around that great hall taking in centuries of history, peering at tombs of Kings, Queens, Princesses and Princes and all important Cardinals and Bishops.  A great amount of history was recited through the audio device, a surprising amount that I had learned and remembered in my schooling.

  
This ancient door in the Abbey is said to be the oldest in England .  Beside it was the door to the library leading us to Westminster Cathedral- on the right mission at last! (Free entry too!)

At the far end of the Abbey, we found the oldest door in London, just next to the Library door.  I boldly buzzed the intercom and introduced myself as the Great-Niece of Anthony Bartlett and could the good man please tell me the location of his memorial plaque.  Well, that most knowledgeable and kindly gentleman paused for a moment, and did acknowledge his awareness of my uncle and his great deeds.  He was very clear on the whereabouts of his memorial plaque and gave me very good instructions on how to get to the Westminster Cathedral, that esteemed Catholic institution, several blocks up the road!  You can imagine my astonishment in that ever so slight difference between Westminster Abbey and Westminster Cathedral; The Anglican Church of England vs the Roman Catholic Church!  It was my turn to acknowledge the very core of my Great Uncle’s passion – being a Roman Catholic!  The kindly Librarian was most polite in pointing me on my way.  Matt and I rolled on the floor of the Abbey laughing at this minor difference in a name!  It never occurred to me throughout our two hour tour of the Abbey, despite the many historical references to the creation of the Church of England (never mind all the references to coronations of Kings and Queens!).  Matt also shed a few tears amidst our laughter for having paid out 16 pounds for naught!  It is moments like that that validates my poor Mother’s despair of her “heathen” daughter.

  
The Cathedral’s main hall and alter with a host of angles on the ceiling all done with tiny quarter inch pieces of marble.

A short walk, a quick cup of tea and munch behind Scotland Yard’s beehive of riot police preparations and fleet assembly, we made it to Westminster Cathedral and once again inquired about the whereabouts of my great-uncles’ commemorative plaques.  The Senior Archivist, Miriam Power, was summoned and the most amazing, personal tour of the Cathedral commenced, starting in the Archives in the upper wings of the Cathedral.  Ms Power was beyond generous in her time and knowledge of all three of my great-uncles and their incredible services to the Cathedral.  She introduced us to the current Cathedral Administrator, Monsignor ?? and both expressed personal admiration and affection for the three Bartlett brothers.  There is a whole piece of family history tucked away in those archives, as Great-Uncle Aelred was an incredible photographer and several boxes of his work were left in care of the Cathedral by the family.  Matt and I were invited back to go through the box to assist Ms Power in identifying family members and other connections to the Cathedral.  A future project!

  The mosaic of Saint Francis of Assisi, lover of all nature’s creations was commemorated in honour of my Great-Uncle Francis Bartlett.   His titles included Canon,  Cathedral Administrator, Monsignor, And Auxiliary Bishop.  He was also instrumental for the creation of the famed Cathedral Choir.

  This hemisphere mosaic of Saint Anthony of Padun, creator of the Franciscan Order was commemorated in honour of Great-Uncle Anthony Bartlett.  His titles included publisher, cathedral finisher, helper of the homeless and the last Gentiluomo to the Cardinal Archbishop.

  In 1961, Great Uncle Aelred Bartlett designed and created this mosaic of Saint Nicholas of Nauticum, Patron and Protector of Seafarers. 

Ms. Powers then walked us around the many alcoves and pointed out the works presented in my uncles’ memory.  They were not actually commemorative plaques, but even better, the funds donated by over 62 great and great-great nieces and nephews was put to the Cathedral’s ongoing goals of finishing the interior with the mosaic art that lines the Cathedral’s walls and ceilings.  A project well on it’s way around the side alcoves, but still much more to do on the interior high ceilings.  There were three alcove arches done on behalf of my uncles, two post-humously for Anthony and Francis and the third was created by Aelred himself in 1961.

  
The grand alter with its majestic ceiling towering over.  A brilliant cobalt blue mosaic from a section in an alcove chapel .  Incredible work.

As grand and historically significant as the Abbey was, our time and experience in the Cathedral was far more interesting and enlightening on a number of levels.  The family connection was beyond my expectations, the artwork in the mosaic ceilings was brilliant, and having a personal inside look at my uncles’ roles and how well honoured they still are was humbling. As I wandered on my own, I was filled with a great sense of peace and love in the Westminster Cathedral.  Its a place I will go back to.

Before we left, in a mesmerized state of love and peace, I lit four candles and made prayers for those I love the most and the well-being of the world.